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You’ll obviously need a gas supply to the location of the hob and cooker, and usually power from an ordinary 13A socket (to power the ignition system of the appliance). While it is permissible for a householder to connect a gas appliance to a flexible self-sealing connector (often used for gas appliances), you’d be well advised to use a Gas Safe Engineer to do this. There will likely be a residual smell of gas when the connector is removed, but you won’t be able to tell if the smell is just a residual smell, or if there is gas leaking from the self-sealing connector. A Gas Safe Engineer can check for sure that there are no leaks, giving you reassurance and peace of mind.
While some electric ovens and hobs can run off a normal 13A socket, most will need to be hard-wired and will require more than 13A. So they’ll need a dedicated circuit able to supply the necessary power (from 16A for a typical single oven up to 30A for a double oven or induction hob). Adding a new circuit has to be done by an electrician. If the circuit is already in place, it is now possible (since Part P of the Building Regulations was updated in 2013) for a non-electrician to hard-wire an appliance to an existing circuit, but most householders would want an electrician to do this. You need to be sure that the circuit is rated correctly for your appliance, and that you are using a suitable size of cable to run from the appliance to the hard-wired connection on the wall.
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